Manu Feildel will leave you asking for MORE PLEASE!
After working all day in the kitchen, the truth is most chefs don’t cook at home. I’m talking Deliveroo is on speed dial after cooking all day for others; preparing a meal is the last thing cooks feel like doing after hours.
But not Manu Feildel, who loves nothing more than cooking at home for his family and friends. The proof in the pudding is in his latest book MORE PLEASE!
Like many of us, Manu’s family has diverse cultural roots – oui, French, of course, but also Chinese, Malay and Sri Lankan. Manu also loves to put his own spin on favourite dishes from Spain, Italy and the Middle East. He and his partner, Clarissa, draw on all these influences when creating their home cooked meals. The result is a collection of yum! recipes that tick all the boxes: think quick, easy and enticing for all the family on those busy weeknights (we’re talking to you, Mama!), plus plenty of special-occasion dishes you can whip up to impress a crowd.
This is real, flavoursome food, infused with all the flamboyance for which Manu is known – for all that know and love him, flair is his signature dish!
To inspire food for thought, we’ve included a few samples recipes from MORE PLEASE! below that will obviously leave you asking for MORE PLEASE!
We have four copies of MORE PLEASE! to give away, RRP: $39.99.
To win, tag five friends, use @MotherDriven & #WinMotherDriven and tell us below your fav French food!
Good luck and Vive la France!
LAMB CUTLETS WITH MINT HOLLANDAISE
Hollandaise is the cousin of béarnaise sauce, and both play a very important role in French cuisine. Flavoured with tarragon, béarnaise is terrific with beef, but with lamb the natural choice has to be this rich, creamy hollandaise, enhanced with fresh and dried mint.
1½ tablespoons olive oil
16 lamb cutlets, seasoned with sea salt and pepper
mint sprigs, to garnish
3 golden shallots, finely chopped
60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) white wine
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dried mint
1 teaspoon crushed black peppercorns
4 egg yolks
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) Clarified butter (see page 202)
1 tablespoon finely chopped mint
juice of ½ lemon
freshly ground black pepper
To make the hollandaise, combine the shallot, white wine, vinegar, dried mint
and peppercorns in a small saucepan over high heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat medium–low and simmer for 3–5 minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a heatproof bowl that fits snugly over a saucepan and set aside to cool.
Half-fill the saucepan with water and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce
to a simmer.
Add the egg yolks to the shallot reduction in the bowl, along with a pinch of salt, then rest the bowl over the saucepan, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water, and start whisking. It should foam and then thicken to the consistency of thin (pouring) cream. As you continue to whisk, the volume should increase. After about 8–10 minutes, you will be able to see the bottom of the bowl, which means the mixture is cooked.
Tip the water out of the saucepan and drape a tea towel (dish towel) over the empty pan. Put the bowl back in the saucepan, resting on the tea towel to reduce movement and keep it nicely stabilised. Pour a thin stream of clarified butter into the egg mixture, building the sauce by whisking constantly as you would a mayonnaise until all the butter has been incorporated. Stir in the fresh mint and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside until required.
Heat a large frying pan or chargrill pan over very high heat and drizzle over the olive oil. Add the lamb cutlets (in batches if necessary) and cook for 2 minutes
on each side, or until nicely caramelised and cooked to your liking. Transfer to
a plate, cover with foil and leave to rest for a few minutes.
Garnish the cutlets with mint leaves and serve with the mint hollandaise and
a side of your favourite vegetables.
THIN APPLE AND ALMOND TARTS
I must have made thousands of these in my early days as a chef, and no wonder. The buttery puff pastry is topped with a luscious almond cream and thinly sliced apple, then baked until crisp and caramelised. Served with a simple scoop of vanilla ice cream, it’s hard to imagine a more delicious dessert.
2 pink lady apples
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 x 375 g (13 oz) roll of Carême puff pastry, thawed in the fridge (or if you have time, make your own – see page 205)
15 g (½ oz) unsalted butter, melted
1–2 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar
vanilla ice cream, to serve (optional)
100 g (3½ oz) unsalted butter, softened
150 g (5½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
1 egg yolk
100 g (3½ oz) almond meal
30 g (1 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
1½ tablespoons Calvados (apple liqueur)
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) and line a large baking tray with baking paper.
For the frangipane, place the softened butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer with a paddle attachment and beat until pale and fluffy. Beat in the egg and egg yolk, then vigorously stir in the almond meal, flour and Calvados until smooth. Set aside
Peel the apples, then cut them in half and carefully remove the core. Cut into very thin slices (about 2 mm/A/af inch thick if you can) and put in a bowl with the lemon juice and 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of cold water. Stir once, then drain the apple slices on a clean tea towel (dish towel).
On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry to create a larger rectangle. Using an 18 cm (7 inch) side plate or ring mould as a guide, cut two rounds from the pastry. Place the rounds on the prepared baking tray and prick all over with a fork to stop it puffing up too much. Any remaining pastry can be pressed back together, wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the fridge for another use.
Evenly spread 1–2 heaped tablespoons of frangipane on each pastry disc. Any leftovers will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
Arrange the apple slices in a concentric circle on top of the frangipane, overlapping to create a flower shape, and place two or three half-slices in the middle to finish. Brush the apple with melted butter and sprinkle with half the caster sugar.
Bake for 10 minutes, then remove from the oven and sprinkle with the remaining sugar. Return to the oven and bake for a further 10 minutes, or until the pastry is puffed in the centre and the apple slices are pale golden.
Serve hot or warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, if desired.
HOKKIEN NOODLES WITH PORK AND PRAWNS
What’s not to like in this crowd-pleasing recipe? Easy to cook and even easier to eat, it’s everything you want in a noodle dish. As with all stir-fries, make sure you have all the ingredients and sauces prepared and close to your wok before you start cooking.
250 g (9 oz) pork scotch fillet, thinly sliced
1 bunch choy sum
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) hokkien noodles
100 ml (3½ fl oz) peanut or vegetable oil
3 small garlic cloves, finely chopped
12 raw prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, tails intact
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) Chicken stock (see page 196)
1 tablespoon soy sauce, plus extra to taste
1 large brown onion, diced
sea salt, to taste
2 fresh long red chillies, thinly sliced (optional)
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
½ teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons cornflour (cornstarch)
To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Add the pork and stir to coat thoroughly, then cover and set aside for 30 minutes.
Wash the choy sum well, then separate the leaves from the stalks and cut into 5 cm (2 inch) pieces.
Bring a kettle of water to the boil. Put the noodles in a colander set over a large heatproof bowl and pour over the boiling water to rinse. Drain thoroughly and set aside.
Heat a large wok over high heat and add 2 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is starting to smoke, add the pork and marinade and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and prawns and stir-fry for another minute. Add the choy sum stalks and toss to combine, then pour in the chicken stock and half the soy sauce and cook for 2 minutes. Add the choy sum leaves and stir until wilted. Transfer to a bowl or plate and set aside.
Heat the remaining oil in the wok over high heat. When the oil is smoking, add the onion and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, or until it is lightly golden. Add the noodles, spreading them evenly across the wok, and leave to crisp slightly at the bottom. Drizzle over the remaining soy sauce and stir-fry for a few seconds.
Add the pork and prawn mixture and toss to combine. Season with salt and extra soy sauce to taste, and serve garnished with fresh chilli, if desired.
DUCK-FAT POTATOES WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY
Crisp golden potatoes are probably the one vegetable accompaniment that everyone loves – no matter what shape or form they come in. While the garlic and rosemary certainly add to the flavour of this dish, it is the duck fat that really makes it stand out. Just one taste and you’ll be hooked.
6 large all-purpose potatoes (e.g. desiree or sebago)
160 g (53⁄4 oz/M cup) duck fat, at room temperature sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
16–18 thyme sprigs
8–10 young rosemary sprigs or sprig tips, cut into 5 cm (2 inch) lengths
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and line a baking tray with baking paper.
Scrub the potatoes under cold running water and pat dry. Put them on a chopping board, flattest side down, and cut horizontal slits into the potato, spacing them about 5 mm (1⁄4 inch) apart. Take care not to cut all the way through – you want the slices to stay connected at the bottom of the potato.
Arrange the potatoes on the prepared tray. Brush all over with some of the duck fat, including the bottoms, and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.
Bake for 30 minutes, or until the slices start separating. Brush the potatoes again with duck fat, making sure some of it drips down between the slices. Gently separate the slices, if necessary, and insert garlic slices and sprigs of thyme and rosemary in between.
Return the tray to the oven and bake for a further 30–35 minutes, or until the potatoes are crisp on the edges. Serve immediately, while the potatoes are at their crispest.